Quick facts
- Located in
- Kananaskis Country, southwest Alberta
- Best time
- June to September / December to March
- Getting there
- 1 hour from Calgary via Highway 1 West and Highway 40 South
- Days needed
- 2-4 days
Kananaskis Country is one of the great open secrets of the Canadian Rockies. Immediately west of Calgary — one hour on Highway 1 to Highway 40 — it covers 4,000 square kilometres of mountain terrain with excellent trails, turquoise lakes, and wildlife that matches anything in Banff, at dramatically lower visitor pressure and (crucially) without the Banff National Park pass requirement for most of the area.
The reason Kananaskis is less visited than Banff is not that it is less beautiful. It is that the name carries less international recognition. For anyone who has done the Banff circuit and finds themselves overwhelmed by the July crowds at Lake Louise, or for first-time visitors with the insider knowledge to come here first, Kananaskis delivers one of the finest mountain experiences in Alberta.
Why choose Kananaskis over Banff?
This is not an either-or question — Kananaskis and Banff complement each other rather than compete. But there are specific advantages to Kananaskis:
No national park entry fee for the majority of Kananaskis Country (the area is administered as a provincial recreation area, not a national park). Peter Lougheed Provincial Park is a fee area within Kananaskis, but most of the recreational land is free to enter.
Fewer crowds: At peak summer, the parking lots at Peter Lougheed’s Kananaskis Lakes are busy — but nothing approaching the chaos of Lake Louise or Moraine Lake. Mid-week visits can be remarkably quiet.
Mountain biking: Kananaskis has the finest trail-based mountain biking in the Alberta Rockies, with an extensive network of singletrack above and around Kananaskis Village.
Proximity to Calgary: One hour from the city, making it the most practical mountain escape for Calgarians and visitors based in Calgary.
The trade-off: Kananaskis has fewer iconic “postcard” moments than Banff, no gondola, and fewer upscale restaurant options. It rewards those who value the experience over the brand.
Peter Lougheed Provincial Park and the Kananaskis Lakes
Peter Lougheed Provincial Park, in the southern section of Kananaskis Country (about 100 km from Calgary on Highway 40 South), contains the most dramatic Kananaskis scenery. The two Kananaskis Lakes — Upper and Lower — are large, turquoise glacial lakes ringed by peaks and connected by a short gorge.
Upper Kananaskis Lake has one of the best trail systems in the area — the Upper Kananaskis Lake Trail (15 km circuit, 100 m elevation gain) circumnavigates the lake through forest and open terrain with continuous lake views. The full circuit takes 4-5 hours and is one of the finest lakeside walks in Alberta.
Three Isle Lake (21 km return from the Upper Lake trailhead, 500 m gain) is a favourite destination for day hikers and overnight backpackers — a remote alpine lake in a hanging valley above the main lakes. The effort is considerable but the isolation rewards.
Rawson Lake (7.4 km return from Upper Kananaskis Lake, 350 m gain) is the most popular destination hike from the lakes area — a turquoise lake in a small cirque above the main valley. Consistently excellent wildflower display in early July.
Kananaskis Village and Ribbon Creek area
Kananaskis Village, on the eastern edge of the mountains about 70 km from Calgary on Highway 40, is the accommodation hub of Kananaskis Country — a purpose-built resort village with several hotels, restaurants, and the Kananaskis Nordic Spa.
The Ribbon Creek trail network surrounding Kananaskis Village has hiking and mountain biking trails at every level. The Troll Falls trail (4 km return, 80 m gain) leads to a 10-metre waterfall in a forest setting — a good family hike from the village. Skogan Pass (16 km return, 600 m gain) is the most demanding local hike, climbing to a high pass between the Bow Valley and the Kananaskis Valley with views of both.
Nakiska Ski Resort at Mount Allan serves as the village’s winter anchor — the alpine ski venue for the 1988 Calgary Winter Olympics. The resort has retained its Olympic character and offers uncrowded skiing compared to SkiBig3 resorts in Banff. Nakiska is the closest ski area to Calgary and a viable day-trip ski destination.
Spray Lakes area
The Spray Lakes Reservoir and surrounding terrain is reached via Highway 742 (the Spray Lakes Road) southwest of Canmore — an unpaved but well-maintained road through an area of rock-climbing and backcountry access. Goat Pond, in the Spray Valley, is a quiet lake with views of Mount Sparrowhawk and the surrounding peaks.
The Spray Lakes area connects to Canmore’s extensive trail network on the north side and Peter Lougheed on the south — the backbone of a multi-day Kananaskis traverse for ambitious travellers.
Browse Banff and Kananaskis guided tours and outdoor experiencesElbow Valley and Bragg Creek
The Elbow Valley, southwest of Calgary via Highway 22 and Highway 66, is the closest Kananaskis terrain to the city — forested foothills and lower mountain terrain within 45-60 minutes of downtown. The Elbow River valley has good multi-use trails for hiking and mountain biking, and the hamlet of Bragg Creek at the valley’s mouth is a worthwhile stop for coffee and food before heading further into the mountains.
Elbow Lake, at the head of the Elbow Valley (60 km from Bragg Creek on Highway 66, then Hwy 40), sits below the high Elbow Pass and is a day-hiking destination with a backcountry campground for overnighters.
Highwood Pass
Highwood Pass (2,206 m) at the southern end of Highway 40 is the highest driveable mountain pass in Canada. The pass is accessible from mid-June through November (the road is closed in winter to protect wildlife). From the pass parking area, the landscape is high alpine — open tundra, late-lying snow, and ptarmigan are the characteristic features. The Ptarmigan Cirque trail (5.4 km return, 245 m gain) from Highwood Pass is one of the finest short alpine hikes in Alberta, climbing into a glacial cirque above the treeline.
Note: Highway 40 between Kananaskis Village and Highwood Pass is closed December 1 through June 14 annually for wildlife management.
Wildlife in Kananaskis
Kananaskis Country has a rich wildlife population — grizzly and black bears, wolves, cougars, elk, moose, bighorn sheep, mountain goats, and mule deer are all resident. The area has the advantage for wildlife viewing of lower visitor pressure than Banff, meaning animals are less habituated to human presence and potentially more visible in natural behaviour.
Bears are commonly sighted along Highway 40 and in the Kananaskis Lakes area in summer. The visitor centres at Kananaskis Village and Barrier Lake provide current wildlife sighting information. Always carry bear spray.
Bighorn sheep are frequently seen on the cliff terrain in the Kananaskis River valley between the Trans-Canada and Kananaskis Village — sometimes directly beside the road.
Kananaskis Nordic Spa
The Kananaskis Nordic Spa at the Pomeroy Kananaskis Mountain Lodge is one of the finest outdoor spa facilities in Alberta — a series of hot and cold pools, steam rooms, and sauna facilities in a mountain setting. Open year-round, the spa is a worthwhile add-on to a Kananaskis hiking day or a standalone destination in winter.
Reservations required; book ahead for weekends, particularly in winter when the spa is busiest.
Where to stay in Kananaskis
Pomeroy Kananaskis Mountain Lodge (formerly the Delta Lodge) is the main accommodation at Kananaskis Village — a large resort property with comfortable rooms, the Nordic Spa, two restaurants, and easy access to the trail network. Rates are lower than comparable Banff properties; a good value alternative for those willing to drive slightly further.
Mount Engadine Lodge, 90 km from Calgary near the Spray Lakes area, is an intimate mountain lodge with outstanding food and a setting on the edge of a meadow known for grizzly bear activity. One of the most special smaller lodges in the Alberta Rockies.
Camping: Peter Lougheed Provincial Park campgrounds (Boulton Creek, Elkwood) are bookable through the Alberta Parks reservation system and provide excellent base camping for the Kananaskis Lakes area.
Book Calgary and Kananaskis outdoor tour experiencesPractical information
Getting there: Highway 1 West from Calgary to the Kananaskis Country turnoff at Seebe, then Highway 40 South. The Trans-Canada turnoff is approximately 60 km from Calgary; Kananaskis Village is 30 km further south on Highway 40. Total from Calgary city centre: approximately 1 hour.
No park pass required for Kananaskis Country generally. Peter Lougheed Provincial Park has a provincial day use fee (approximately CAD $3-5 per vehicle) at some areas.
Services: Kananaskis Village has restaurants, a gas station, and the Nordic Spa. The nearest major grocery and fuel are in Canmore (20 km north on Highway 40 and Highway 1).
Cell service: Limited to poor in most of Kananaskis Country. Download offline maps before leaving Canmore or Calgary.