Montreal smoked meat: the complete guide

Montreal smoked meat is not pastrami. It’s not corned beef. It’s not Montreal’s version of a New York deli staple — it’s a specific food with its own spice blend, its own curing and smoking process, and a century-plus tradition in Montreal that has no close equivalent anywhere else. For visitors, a smoked meat sandwich is one of the essential Montreal experiences, on par with a bagel from St-Viateur or a plate of poutine from La Banquise.

This guide explains what Montreal smoked meat actually is, compares the main contenders, and helps you order correctly so that your first sandwich is the one locals would actually respect.

What is Montreal smoked meat?

Montreal smoked meat is beef brisket that has been:

1. Cured: salt-cured with a distinctive spice blend — heavy on black pepper, coriander, garlic, and mustard seed, lighter on the sweet spices that characterise New York pastrami. The cure takes 7-10 days.
2. Smoked: cold-smoked over hardwood for several hours. Less heavy smoke than Texas barbecue, more than a cooked ham.
3. Steamed: steamed for several hours before serving, which is critical — it rehydrates the meat and makes it slice cleanly.
4. Hand-sliced: carved to order at the counter, against the grain.

The result is pink, heavily peppered, moist, and fragrant — distinct from both pastrami (sweeter, more paprika-heavy) and corned beef (not smoked, just cured and boiled).

Origins

Smoked meat arrived in Montreal with Jewish immigrants from Eastern Europe (primarily Romania and the Russian Empire) in the late 19th century. By the 1890s and early 1900s, delicatessens serving smoked meat had established themselves along Saint-Laurent Boulevard — the spine of the Jewish Plateau at the time.

Schwartz’s (opened 1928) is the longest continuously running of the classic institutions. The Main (directly across Saint-Laurent) opened later. Ben’s Delicatessen (now closed) was the third member of the historic trio.

Over the 20th century, as the Jewish community largely relocated to Côte-Saint-Luc, Hampstead and other western neighbourhoods, smoked meat became less exclusively Jewish and more broadly Montréalais. Today, smoked meat is a pan-Montreal food — served at delis, at corner restaurants, in supermarket packages, even as poutine toppings.

How to order

A smoked meat sandwich is ordered three ways:

1. Fat content

The critical choice. Brisket has layers of fat running through it, and you specify how much you want:

• Lean: mostly from the flat, minimal fat. Healthier-looking, but often dry. Locals call this “the sandwich for out-of-towners who don’t know better.”
• Medium: the standard. Some fat, some lean. What most Montrealers order.
• Medium-fat: more fat than lean — the connoisseur’s choice. Maximum flavour, richest texture.
• Fatty: mostly the fat-marbled cap. Decadent, divisive.

If you don’t specify, you’ll often get medium. Medium-fat is the correct order.

2. Bread

• Rye (with caraway seeds): the traditional and correct choice.
• White: available but a concession to non-traditionalists. Don’t.

3. Condiments

• Yellow mustard: traditional. Sharp, simple, cuts the fat.
• No cheese, no lettuce, no tomato, no mayo: a classic Montreal smoked meat sandwich is bread, meat, mustard. That’s it.
• Pickle and side of fries or coleslaw: typical accompaniment.

The main contenders

Schwartz’s Delicatessen

3895 Boulevard Saint-Laurent, Plateau-Mont-Royal

The institution. Opened 1928. Narrow, cramped, often with a line out the door. Co-owned by Céline Dion since 2012 (this gets brought up constantly and is irrelevant to the sandwich). The medium-fat smoked meat sandwich at Schwartz’s is what most people mean when they say “Montreal smoked meat.”

• Pros: historic atmosphere, consistent quality, defining example of the genre
• Cons: lines can be 30-60 minutes at peak times, tight seating, cash-preferred
• The move: get takeaway from the separate takeout window next door to skip the line, eat in a nearby park

The Main Deli Steakhouse

3864 Boulevard Saint-Laurent, directly across from Schwartz’s

The historic rival. Less famous, less crowded, and in the opinion of many locals, equally good or better smoked meat. Full menu of steakhouse items in addition to the deli classics. No line.

• Pros: no line, full sit-down restaurant experience, excellent smoked meat
• Cons: less historic aura
• The move: if Schwartz’s has a line, cross the street

Lester’s Deli

1057 Avenue Bernard, Outremont

The Outremont/Mile End choice. Further from tourist areas, local favourite, arguably the best-quality smoked meat in the city. Different neighbourhood, different energy — family-style deli in a quieter district.

• Pros: excellent quality, local atmosphere, less touristy
• Cons: further from Plateau tourism hub
• The move: if you’re in Mile End or Outremont, this is your spot

Other contenders

• Smoke Meat Pete (Île Perrot, suburban Montreal): tourist-famous from Anthony Bourdain’s show, still excellent, worth a detour if you have a car
• Snowdon Deli (CDN area): classic long-standing neighbourhood deli, quieter
• Dunn’s Famous (downtown): modern chain, widely available, quality inconsistent — convenient more than excellent

The “smoked meat poutine” variation

Some Montreal restaurants offer poutine topped with smoked meat — La Banquise is the best-known example. This is a relatively modern invention and beloved by many (including many Montrealers). Not traditional smoked meat eating, but legitimate Montreal food.

Best smoked meat sandwich ritual

The ideal sandwich:

• Go to Schwartz’s (or The Main) at an off-peak hour (Tuesday 2pm is perfect; Sunday noon is misery)
• Order: medium-fat smoked meat on rye, yellow mustard, pickle
• Side: fries (hand-cut, good) or coleslaw
• Drink: Cott Black Cherry soda (the traditional deli drink)
• Eat it immediately while still hot from the slicer

Total time: 20 minutes if the line is manageable. Cost: around $15-18 for the sandwich, $25-30 with sides and drink.

For travellers taking it home

Schwartz’s vacuum-seals smoked meat for travellers. This is legal to bring into most countries with meat import allowances (check your country’s rules). In Canada, smoked meat is sold at supermarkets (Métro, IGA) in vacuum packs for bringing to other provinces.

Combining with other Montreal food stops

A good Montreal food day:

• Morning: bagel and cream cheese at Fairmount or St-Viateur (Mile End)
• Lunch: smoked meat at Schwartz’s or Lester’s
• Afternoon: coffee and pastry in a Plateau café, browse Jean-Talon Market
• Dinner: Au Pied de Cochon (for Quebec excess) or a bistro on Saint-Laurent

See our Montreal food guide for the full treatment, and our Montreal bagels vs NY bagels comparison for the companion Jewish-Montreal food piece.

Final word

Montreal smoked meat is not an interchangeable deli product. It’s a specific tradition with specific rules, and the specificity is part of the pleasure. Order medium-fat on rye with mustard, eat at Schwartz’s or Lester’s, and you’ll understand why Montrealers argue about delis the way Italians argue about pasta shapes.