Pender Island

Pender Island is technically two islands — North Pender and South Pender, joined by a one-lane wooden bridge over a narrow tidal channel called Bedwell Harbour — that together form the most trail-rich and arguably most beach-accessible of the Southern Gulf Islands. The 67 mapped hiking and walking trails that crisscross the islands range from 15-minute viewpoint walks to full-day ridge traverses, and the beaches — particularly at Medicine Beach and Gowlland Point — are among the finest in the Gulf Islands.

With a permanent population of around 2,300, Pender has enough services and social infrastructure to feel like a real community rather than a summer ghost town out of season. The island has an active arts community, a farmers market, a winery, and a constellation of small farms and food producers that give it a self-sufficient agricultural character. It is the Gulf Island for people who want trails and swimming rather than fine dining and kayaking at the adventure level.

The trails: 67 routes through forest and shoreline

The Pender Island trail network has been systematically developed and mapped by the Pender Island Parks and Recreation Commission to an extent unusual among the Gulf Islands. The official trail map identifies 67 named routes, colour-coded by difficulty, covering both North and South Pender. This makes navigation on foot far more straightforward than on most small islands where informal paths and unclear trailheads are the norm.

Mount Norman Regional Park on South Pender provides the island’s highest accessible viewpoint — a 244-metre summit reachable by a 1.5-kilometre trail that offers 360-degree views of the surrounding Gulf Islands, the Haro Strait toward San Juan Island, and on clear days, the Olympic Mountains in Washington State. The trail is moderate in difficulty and takes about 45 minutes each way.

Beaumont Marine Provincial Park at the head of Bedwell Harbour on South Pender is accessible by trail from the bridge connection, combining a forest walk with a sheltered harbour view and camping area. The trail to Greenburn Lake, a small freshwater lake in the South Pender interior, is a peaceful 45-minute round trip that passes through second-growth forest full of birdlife.

Roesland Trails on the west side of North Pender are coastal walks through Garry oak meadow with shoreline viewpoints. The Hope Bay area on the northeast corner of North Pender has a cluster of trails that pass through private and Crown land near the small waterfront community.

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Beaches: the Gulf Islands’ most accessible swimming

Pender has more vehicle-accessible beaches than any other Gulf Island — a practical advantage for visitors who want to swim, sunbathe, and beachcomb without a significant hike to reach the water.

Medicine Beach on the south shore of North Pender at Bedwell Harbour Road is the most popular — a curved beach of fine sand and gravel on a sheltered harbour where the water warms quickly in summer. The shallow south-facing bay holds solar heat well and summer water temperatures reach 19–21°C, making Medicine Beach one of the warmest swimming beaches in the Gulf Islands. A protected wetland behind the beach provides birding opportunities.

Mortimer Spit on the north shore of North Pender at Port Washington is a narrow sandstone spit extending into the water with views up Swanson Channel toward Salt Spring Island. The flat sandstone shelves at the end of the spit create natural wading pools at low tide. This is one of the better spots on the island for watching BC Ferries and recreational boats navigate the busy channel.

Gowlland Point at the southern tip of South Pender is a dramatic rocky shoreline above the Boundary Pass — the marine boundary between Canada and the United States. The exposed sandstone headland looks directly across to San Juan Island and on clear days to the distant Olympic Mountains. Tidal pools here are excellent at low tide.

Hamilton Beach near Hope Bay is a small pebble beach with a relaxed community feel — a hammock-strung waterfront that is a favourite of resident families on summer evenings.

Pender Island winery and food producers

Pender Island Vineyard (formerly Morning Bay Vineyard and Estate Winery) produces estate wines from a 5-acre vineyard on North Pender — one of the northernmost commercial vineyards in BC wine country. The cool maritime climate favours aromatic whites: Pinot Gris, Ortega, and a distinctive Madeleine Sylvaner that grows well in the island’s specific microclimate. The tasting room and small patio are open in summer.

Sea Star Vineyards and Winery at Bedwell Harbour on South Pender occupies a south-facing slope that maximises solar heat, producing wines that are riper and more structured than the cool-climate aromatics of the north part of the island. Their rosé and Pinot Noir are among the island’s most approachable wines.

The Pender Island farmers market runs on Saturdays in summer at the Community Hall — smaller than Salt Spring’s famous market but with genuine island provenance: locally grown vegetables, handmade preserves, artisan bread, and crafts from island makers.

Talisman Books and Gallery at Hope Bay combines a used bookshop with local art — a pleasingly timeless combination that says something about the cultural priorities of the island’s permanent community. The Hope Bay general store is the island’s old-fashioned community grocery and has been since the early 20th century.

Getting around: bridge, bike, and boat

Pender’s two-island structure means the one-lane wooden bridge at Canal Road is the key piece of infrastructure — all traffic between North and South Pender crosses this single point, creating occasional short queues in summer but also the charming experience of yielding to oncoming traffic with a wave.

Cycling is a viable way to explore Pender, particularly for those staying on North Pender where the main commercial area, accommodation, and ferry terminal are concentrated. South Pender is hillier and has no services beyond a seasonal café at Bedwell Harbour. The complete south island loop by bicycle takes about two hours with stops.

BC Ferries serves Pender from Swartz Bay near Victoria (35 minutes), making it the most accessible Gulf Island from the island’s capital. Service from Tsawwassen connects Pender to the Vancouver side. The inter-island ferries that connect Pender to Galiano, Mayne, and Saturna make multi-island ferry hopping possible.

Book a Victoria and Gulf Islands day tour by sea or ferry

Where to stay on Pender Island

Poets Cove Resort and Spa at Bedwell Harbour on South Pender is the island’s resort property — a full-service marina, spa, restaurant, and cottage complex on one of the most beautiful natural harbours in the Gulf Islands. The resort has cottages, bungalows, and hotel rooms, a heated outdoor pool, and a restaurant that makes good use of local seafood.

Saturna Lodge (technically on Saturna but reachable by inter-island ferry) and various B&Bs and vacation rentals on North Pender provide more intimate alternatives. The Inn on Pender Island near the ferry terminal offers motel-style accommodation at more accessible prices.

Camping is available at Prior Centennial Campground managed by BC Parks — a small campground on North Pender near the ferry terminal that is an excellent base for trail access. Book through BC Parks reservation system in advance for summer weekends.

Practical tips

Pender is one of the Gulf Islands most suited to families with children — the beaches are accessible, the trails are appropriately graded, and Medicine Beach’s warm swimming is more reliably enjoyable than the colder ocean beaches of the outer coast.

The island has a small grocery store and liquor store at the ferry terminal area, but food selection is limited. Arriving from Victoria with good provisions for self-catering makes sense if you are staying in a vacation rental.

Related Gulf Islands and itineraries

The Gulf Islands comparison guide helps you choose between all five Southern Gulf Islands. Pender is included in the Gulf Islands ferry-hopping itinerary as a beach-focused day. The complete British Columbia hub page links to all Gulf Islands and related activities.

Frequently asked questions about Pender Island

How do you get from North Pender to South Pender?

By the single-lane wooden bridge over Canal at Bedwell Harbour — it is the only road connection. Traffic alternates direction and waits for oncoming vehicles at each end. It is one of the Gulf Islands’ most charming pieces of infrastructure.

Is Pender Island good for families?

Yes — possibly the best Gulf Island for families with young children. Medicine Beach’s warm, sheltered water, the accessible trail network, and the generally flat terrain around North Pender make it manageable for all ages.

Can I do Pender Island as a day trip from Victoria?

Technically yes — the Swartz Bay to Pender ferry takes 35 minutes. But the return journey occupies most of the day in travel time and a day trip feels rushed. Two nights is the practical minimum to enjoy the island properly.

What is the difference between North and South Pender?

North Pender has the ferry terminal, all the main services, most accommodation, and a flatter, more accessible terrain. South Pender is wilder, hillier, has fewer services, and offers Poets Cove Resort and the Mount Norman viewpoint trail. Most visitors base on North Pender and day-trip to South.