Rimouski: Onondaga Submarine, Parc du Bic, Gateway to the Lower St. Lawrence

Rimouski is the largest city in the Bas-Saint-Laurent region and the gateway to everything east — the Gaspésie, the north shore of the St. Lawrence, and Parc National du Bic, one of Quebec’s most dramatic coastal parks that begins only 20 km to the southwest. The city itself has a population of approximately 50,000 and functions primarily as a regional service centre and university town (Université du Québec à Rimouski), but several specific attractions make it worth more than a passing stop.

The city sits on a terrace above the St. Lawrence, with views across the estuary to the Charlevoix mountains on the opposite shore — a 40-km crossing that is one of the most impressive vistas in Quebec. In clear conditions, the mountains of Charlevoix rise distinctly on the horizon; in early morning, the fog that settles on the river surface in summer gives the view a particular quality. The tidal range here is significant (4–5 metres) and the exposed flats at low tide, combined with the wide river, give the coastal edge of Rimouski a grandeur that is different from the narrow river upstream.

HMCS Onondaga: Canada’s only open submarine

The centrepiece of the Pointe-au-Père Maritime Historic Site, 10 km east of Rimouski, is HMCS Onondaga — a Oberon-class diesel-electric submarine that served with the Royal Canadian Navy from 1967 to 2000 and is now permanently moored as a museum ship. It is the only submarine in Canada that visitors can tour, and the interior experience is one of the more unusual and memorable museum visits available in Quebec.

The guided tour of the submarine’s interior runs approximately 45 minutes and takes visitors through the full length of the boat: the torpedo room in the bow, the control room (with its chart table, sonar stations, and periscope), the cramped crew quarters, the engine room aft, and the manoeuvring room. The tour conveys with immediate physical impact the conditions of submarine service — the low ceilings, the close quarters, the extraordinary density of equipment packed into the hull, and the sense of what it meant to live in this space for extended periods.

Children in particular tend to find the submarine tour one of the most engaging experiences of a Bas-Saint-Laurent visit; the physical reality of crawling through hatches and standing in the control room beside real equipment is more visceral than a conventional museum exhibit.

Practical information: Tours run through the summer season (late June through early September) with reduced hours in shoulder season. Advance booking is recommended in July and August, when the tours fill. The site is on the water east of Rimouski — follow signs for Pointe-au-Père/Site maritime.

The Empress of Ireland

The Pointe-au-Père site also interprets one of Canada’s most significant maritime disasters: the sinking of the Canadian Pacific steamship Empress of Ireland in the St. Lawrence River on May 29, 1914. The ship — carrying 1,477 passengers and crew from Quebec City to Liverpool — collided with a Norwegian coal carrier in dense fog 15 km offshore. In 14 minutes, the Empress sank. 1,012 people died; 465 survived. The death toll exceeded that of the Titanic (which sank two years earlier) in terms of the percentage of those aboard who perished.

The Musée de la mer at Pointe-au-Père tells the Empress story through survivor testimony, recovered artefacts (china, personal effects, parts of the vessel), and a systematic reconstruction of the collision’s sequence. The scale of the loss — particularly the disproportionate death of third-class passengers who had less access to lifeboats and less time to reach the deck — is presented without sensationalism but without minimisation.

The wreck lies at 40–42 metres offshore, accessible to certified technical divers. It is classified as a protected heritage site under federal legislation. The Pointe-au-Père site can arrange dive visits for qualified groups.

Parc National du Bic: the main reason to be near Rimouski

Parc National du Bic, 20 km southwest of Rimouski, is the most compelling natural attraction in the Bas-Saint-Laurent region and one of the finest coastal parks in Quebec. The park protects a dramatically irregular coastline of rocky promontories, sheltered coves, forested islands, and tidal pools — the product of complex geological faulting that produced a terrain unlike the relatively flat coastal strip elsewhere in the lower St. Lawrence.

Seals: The park’s rocky islands and exposed points are the most accessible seal haul-out sites in the lower St. Lawrence. Harbour seals and grey seals rest on the rocks throughout the summer, and designated viewpoints in the park allow observation from clifftop positions directly above the haul-out areas. On calm mornings, 50–100 seals are routinely visible without binoculars from the better viewpoints.

Hiking: The park has approximately 100 km of maintained trails. The Sentier de la Pointe-du-Moulin (a moderate coastal trail on the park’s most dramatic headland) and the Sentier du Ruisseau-Creux (through forested interior terrain) are among the most rewarding. The Cap-à-l’Original viewpoint provides the most comprehensive view of the park’s distinctive topography.

Sea kayaking: The park’s tidal channels and sheltered coves are excellent for sea kayaking. Guided tours operate from within the park. The experience of paddling between the rocky islands at low tide, with seals visible on the rocks nearby, is outstanding.

Camping: The park’s campground (Sépaq reservation required) is among the most beautifully positioned in Quebec, with sites near the water’s edge. Reserve months in advance for July and August weekends.

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The city of Rimouski

Musée régional de Rimouski: An art and regional history museum occupying a former Jesuit church in the city centre. The building itself — a 1854 stone church adapted for museum use — is architecturally interesting. Rotating exhibitions focus on Quebec contemporary art and regional cultural history.

Cathédrale Saint-Germain: The city’s 1854 cathedral, rebuilt after the 1950 fire that destroyed much of central Rimouski. The reconstruction reflects mid-20th century ecclesiastical architecture in Quebec.

Old Rimouski fire: On May 6, 1950, a catastrophic fire destroyed 300 buildings in central Rimouski, including most of the pre-Confederation architecture. The city was almost entirely rebuilt in the 1950s and 60s, which explains the relative scarcity of heritage architecture in the city centre compared to other Quebec towns of similar age.

University and research presence: UQAR (Université du Québec à Rimouski) has an internationally recognised oceanography department conducting research on the St. Lawrence marine environment. The Institut des sciences de la mer de Rimouski (ISMER) is one of Canada’s leading marine research institutions.

Whale watching from Rimouski

Whale watching boat tours operate from the Rimouski wharf in July and August. The tours are less well-known internationally than those from Tadoussac or Rivière-du-Loup, but the St. Lawrence estuary off Rimouski receives minke whales, fin whales, and occasionally belugas throughout the summer season. The local tours are typically smaller boats with fewer passengers than the major centres.

The marine mammal diversity is somewhat lower than at Tadoussac (where the Saguenay confluence creates exceptional conditions), but for visitors already in Rimouski who don’t want to make the further drive to Tadoussac, the local tours offer a legitimate whale watching experience.

Where to stay in Rimouski

Hôtel Rimouski: The primary hotel in the city, with river views from upper floors and the most comprehensive services in the region.

Auberge de jeunesse de Rimouski: The youth hostel provides budget accommodation for backpackers and families willing to share facilities.

Gîtes and B&Bs: Several bed-and-breakfast properties operate in residential neighbourhoods. The tourist association maintains a current listing.

Getting to Rimouski

From Quebec City: Highway 20 east (the Trans-Canada) to Rimouski is approximately 320 km, taking about 3 to 3.5 hours in normal traffic. The scenic alternative is Highway 132 along the south shore, adding about 45 minutes but passing through Kamouraska, L’Islet, and the full scenic corridor.

Via Rail: The Montreal–Gaspé Chaleur train stops at Rimouski. The Montreal–Halifax Ocean also stops here. Both services are infrequent (twice weekly for the Chaleur) but the rail option is viable for those without cars.

By bus: Orléans Express operates bus service from Quebec City to Rimouski with multiple daily departures.

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Related pages

• Parc National du Bic — the coastal park in full detail
• Bas-Saint-Laurent region overview — the full regional guide
• Kamouraska — the most scenic village to the west
• Rivière-du-Loup — whale watching and ferry connections east

Frequently asked questions about Rimouski: Onondaga Submarine, Parc du Bic, Gateway to the Lower St. Lawrence

How long does the Onondaga submarine tour take? The guided tour takes approximately 45 minutes to 1 hour. The full Pointe-au-Père site (including the Empress of Ireland museum and the lighthouse) takes 2.5–3 hours to explore properly.

Is Rimouski a good base for Parc du Bic? Yes. Parc du Bic is 20 km from Rimouski, about 20 minutes by car. Staying in Rimouski and day-tripping to the park is practical and gives access to the city’s services and restaurants. The village of Le Bic (at the park’s edge) offers a more immersive and atmospheric alternative if you want to be closer to the park.

Can I see whales from the Rimouski shore? Minke whales are occasionally visible from the city’s coastal viewpoints with binoculars during the summer. Boat tours provide much better whale watching. The ferry crossing to Charlevoix (from Rivière-du-Loup, 60 km west) is another option that frequently produces sightings.